The tragic heroine Princess Chujo, depicted both in Noh plays and Joruri (puppet theatre)

Princess Chujo, who lived in the 8th century, was born into the noble Fujiwara family. She was both attractive and intelligent. However, despised by her mother-in-law, and suffering ill treatment, she entered Taimadera Temple as a nun.
Deeply faithful, Princess Chujo devoted herself to Buddhism. Inspired by her Buddhist faith, legend tells of how she wove a tapestry, about 4 meters long, from lotus threads, which subsequently became the main object of worship at Taimadera Temple, in just one night.
People have known the story of Princess Chujo ever since the Heian Period. Noh plays by, among others, Kan’ami and Zeami, ‘Taima’ and ‘Hibariyama’, as well as the Joruri play ‘Taima Chujohime’ by Chikamatsu Monzaemon, are regularly performed and held in great affection by people.

Taimadera Temple, the temple associated with the story of Princess Chujo

A number of Taima Mandala said to have been woven by Princess Chujo have in fact been woven over the centuries, although the original does exist and is known as the Konpon Mandala.
Research has shown that the tapestry was not woven from lotus threads, as legend would have it, but from silk and other threads, and that it may have been made on the continent rather than in Japan. Moreover, weaving such a large tapestry in a single night would not, of course, been possible. It is likely to have taken more than ten years to weave!
Today, the version of the Taima Mandala handed down from generation to generation is displayed in the Main Hall, and is recognized as an Important Cultural Property. Very large, and stunning, seeing it is a must!

A very short walk from Kamameshi Tamaya.See here for more details

A stone monument said to be the grave of Princess Chujo

A monument known as the Princess Chujo grave sits quietly in a public graveyard on the north side of Taimadera Temple. The monument is pagoda-shaped stone tower with thirteen storeys, believed to date from the end of the Kamakura Period, a few hundred years after her death at a time when tales of Princess Chujo were spreading.
Whether or not Princess Chujo is actually buried here, this is a sacred site, one to which many have come and prayed over the years.

About 6 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya.

Sekkoji Temple, where Princess Chujo dyed the lotus threads

This is a temple associated with the Princess Chujo story, and one where she drew water from the well which she used to dye the lotus threads five delicate colours.
This well, known as the ‘Dyeing Well, has, beside it, a cherry tree called the ‘Thread Hanging Cherry’, on which the dyed thread is believed to have been hung. Glancing at the well and tree they both look quite ordinary. You just need a little imagination. They may still have that sort of power over people!

About 13 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details

Nijōzan, beyond which some believe lies the afterlife

Nijōzan, a prominent mountain with twin peaks, Odake (517m) and Medake (474m), lies on the border between Katsuragi-shi in Nara Prefecture, and Taishi-cho in Osaka-fu.
The people who lived on the Yamato Plain would spend their lives seeing the evening sun set between the peaks of Nijōzan, situated as it was on the west side. At some point people began to believe that the world beyond, the afterlife, existed beyond Nijōzan (with apologies to the folk of Osaka!). The belief spread, in later generations, that Amida and Bosatsu – bodhisattavas or Buddhist saints – would come to people from beyond Nijōzan.
In other words, it was thought that Nijōzan was the border between our world and the afterlife.
Whilst regarded as a sacred mountain, it can be climbed by local primary school students, and has several popular climbing routes. The climb takes about one and a half to two hours from Taimadera Station.

The grave of Prince Otsu-no-Mikoto near the summit of Odake

The grave of Prince Otsu-no-Mikoto is located near the summit of the Nijōzan Odake, where he met his tragic end. From a noble blood line being the son of Emperor Tenmu, and being skilled in the literary and military arts, he was loved by all, but alleged to have been implicated in treachery he committed suicide at the young age of twenty four.
Thinking of her brother buried on Nijōzan, his younger sister Oku-no-Himemiko wrote this famous poem.

Utsusomi no
Hito ni aru wareya
Asu yori wa Futakamiyama o
Irose to waga mimu

From tomorrow forever
Shall I regard as brother
Twin-peaked Futakami
I, who suffer here


This brother and sister lost their mother when they were young. She became a nun in Ise. Her brother would secretly visit her. Episodes filled with intrigue, anyone interested in history is urged to find out more!

About 1 to 2 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya.
Whilst not particularly high, the route up is a demanding climb.
Be properly prepared. See here for more details

The real grave of Otsu-no-Mikoto? Toritaniguchi imperial tumulus

… or so it may be introduced, but what is thought to be the actual Otsu-no-Mikoto grave is in fact at the foot of Nijōzan’s Odake, at Toritaniguchi imperial tumulus. A rectangular mound, one side is about 7.6m, and fenced off by metal bars, the gravestone is visible (with a side entrance, it would have housed a stone sarcophagus).
Some regard Otsu-no-Mikoto being buried near the top of a mountain, having been punished on grounds of treason, as unnatural, although it could be seen that it is only fitting to have the grave of a prince who died tragically in a place such as this.

About 15 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details

The best place to view Nijōzan from – Chimataike Pond

Nijōzan looks lovely when viewed from many points around the broad Yamato Plain, but it is highly recommended to view it from Chimataike Pond. Every year, at the equinoxes (the day before the spring and autumn equinox), the evening sun sets precisely between Odake and Medake, making it a truly lovely scene!
We strongly recommend you come at these times to see what must surely be a sight to almost make you want to set out on your journey to the land beyond, to paradise!

About 25 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details

Kamameshi Tamaya is in Katsuragi-shi, the birthplace of sumo wrestling

Katsuragi is recognized as the place where the Japanese national sport, sumo, originated.
The Nihon Shoki chronicles record that, in ancient times, in the 7th year of the reign of Emperor Suinin (supposedly in 23 years BC), Taima no Kehaya, a local who boasted about his great strength, challenged Nomi no Sukune from Izumo no Kuni to a wrestling bout.
However, sumo in those days was nothing like it is today. The rules were completely different. Anything went. Winning could mean being quite violent. On this occasion, Nomi no Sukune kicked Kehaya in the chest and broke ribs, and then broke his back and killed him. The defeated Kehaya’s lands were subsequently confiscated and given to Nomi no Sukune. Poor old Kehaya!
As for the unfortunate local wrestler Kehaya who lost, a fine stone memorial stands here today, and is held in deep veneration by visitors.

A dohyo (sumowring) you can enter!
(The Katsuragi-shi Kehayaza Sumokan)

A unique sumo-themed facility standing along the road to Taimadera Temple. There is a real dohyo sumo ring in the main hall. Women are not permitted to enter actual dohyo rings, but they can here. Why not step up onto the ring and see what it’s like?

About 7 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details

Taima Kehayazaka, said to be the resting place of the loser Kehaya

Said to be the grave of Taima Kehaya, who participated in the first sumo bout to have been watched by an emperor, and who was beaten, the memorial stands in front of the Katsuragi-shi Kehaya Sumokan.
Making a visit to the temple, you might just end up feeling like an exhausted wrestler yourself! For your pains, you’ll at least get to see this memorial which looks rather like it should be dedicated to a local dignitary, erected between the end of the Heian and Kamakura Periods.

About 7 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details

Japanese-style sweet potato ‘Dokkoi Manju’.

Literally next to Kintetsu Taimadera Station, Aki Honpo Taima sells the famous Dokkoi Manju. Based on a sumo concept, Japanese style sweet potato kaitenyaki, using only distinctively flavored sweet potato in each season, they look appealing, and have a curiously nostalgic taste.
There is a total of five types: plain, five bean, chestnut, cream cheese, and the fifth, seasonal Dokkoi Manju. You must buy one as soon as you get to Taimadera Station, and enjoy it on your way!

About 11 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details

A fight to the death was held here! Koshioreda

It was here, at Koshioreda, that the first sumo bout viewed by an emperor, between Taima Kehaya and Nomi no Sukune, was held. The name may be odd, but the statue of the sumo wrestler next to rice fields beside the by-pass has a whimsical aspect. Being such a peaceful spot, it’s hard to imagine a duel being held here once upon a time

About 28 minutes’ walk from Kamameshi Tamaya. See here for more details